Insiders Tour of the Valais

I knew I wanted to tour some vineyards in the Valais, Switzerland’s largest wine-making region, but this French-speaking canton southeast of Lake Geneva offers much more. Alpine peaks tower over ski resorts, idyllic river valleys and quaint mountain villages, and I was eager to get out and explore. With so many summertime activities to choose from, I turned to the Travel Office to help narrow down the options and arrange something special.

My advisor set up an unforgettable excursion: a full day of exploring Alpine trails and savoring Valaisan specialties. Our private guide, the warm and friendly Catherine Antille Emery, has deep roots in the region. Her paternal grandfather opened Crans-Montana’s first luxury hotel in the 1890s, and her maternal grandfather was a vigneron. I couldn’t have been in better hands.

We began the day with a brisk hike along the Bisse du Ro. Bisses (irrigation canals) played a vital role in the region’s agricultural development, transporting glacial meltwater from the mountains to vineyards and pastures. Buried pipes have replaced many of the bisses, but portions of them still function as they always did. Following the narrow paths along these canals, some of which date to the 14th century, makes for a beautiful outing.

The Bisse du Ro trail runs 11 miles from Tseuzier reservoir to Crans-Montana. Going in that direction, the trail is fairly easy and mostly shady, offering breathtaking panoramas of the Rhône Valley stretching below and snow-capped peaks above. While the views are spectacular and the trail is safe, the Bisse du Ro clings to sheer cliffs, making it an acrophobe’s nightmare. We hiked less than half the route, going only as far as the suspension bridge. The vista there rewarded every step we’d taken. Though the rest of the trail is surely lovely, it was time to eat.

After that scenic adventure, we headed to the small town of Lens and sat down to a lavish spread of regional delicacies, including cumin-spiked tomme, traditional sérac and raclette cheeses, plus ham-wrapped prunes and just-picked apricots (Valais provides 95% of the Swiss supply), all paired with plenty of wine. A local named Benjamin had invited us into his home’s kitchen to enjoy this feast. He wasn’t much of a talker. But as he made apricot jam while I flipped through a 1960s issue of Messager boiteux, Switzerland’s oldest almanac (founded in 1708), I felt transported back in time.

We made one final stop at Cave Caloz, a winery in the hands of the Caloz family since 1960. The team works primarily with indigenous grape varieties, including the notoriously difficult-to-grow Petite Arvine. One of the Calozes led our tasting, and her genuine warmth and obvious passion for her craft made the experience much more intimate than a standard winery visit. (Read more about the wine visit here.)

The Travel Office organized an extraordinary excursion for us that I won’t soon forget. Every step, bite and sip celebrated the Valais.